About luggage materials

Material quality
Fabric and lining
Material used for the outside and inside of bags. Surface: The fabric should not have drawn yarn, the yarn stripes should be clear and the color should be uniform, the yarn should have enough horizontal and vertical stripes, the thickness should be enough, and the yarn should be straight (it can be tested with a measuring instrument); Glue bottom: The glue is firmly attached and will not come off the bottom, and the glue bottom will not turn white (it will not turn white after being grabbed by hand, and the original glue bottom color will be maintained); Stress: It is good to merge the horizontal and vertical directions and will not crack after being pulled hard. For colored materials, pay attention to whether there is a reinforcement color, especially for bright colors, it is more likely to produce dyeing. If the color matching is not good, it will be too late to find out everything when the finished product arrives!
Foam and sponge
Mostly used between the fabric and lining of the bag, it cannot be seen in the finished bag. It mainly depends on whether the thickness and density are enough (whether one square meter has enough weight). Good cotton is elastic and not easy to pull apart.
Net material
It should be elastic, have good stress resistance, not easy to pull apart, and no yarn breakage.
Ribbon
There are many types of webbing, such as plain, fine, grooved, etc., but each type of webbing has a standard weight. Check the outside to see if the two edges are smooth, the surface is uniform, and there is no linting, no yarn drawing, no dyeing, etc.
Zipper: The quality of zipper cloth and slider is mainly distinguished by grade: such as A, B, C grades, the higher the grade, the better the quality. Specifications are distinguished by size: such as 3, 5, 8, 10, etc. The larger the number, the larger the specification. And each specification of zipper has a standard weight, and weight is also the key to quality. From the outside, the main attention should be: it should be smooth when pulled, there will be no feeling of pulling smoothly, the sound when pulled is not very loud, and the zipper teeth are not easy to burst when pulled by hand. In addition, the slider also has large and small bottoms, and it is not easy to pull the slider and the puller apart. The puller should be firm, not easy to pull apart, deformation, etc. At the same time, pay attention to whether the color zipper has a reinforced color level. In order to avoid easy dyeing with the fabric, the consequences will be serious.
Fabric knowledge
The materials used for bags are generally divided into main materials and accessories. The main materials can be divided into:
The composition of the fabric is: glue
Yarn:
Definition of the denier number of yarn (fixed length):
Take a yarn of 9000 meters long. If it weighs 70G, it is called 70D, 210G is called 210D, and so on. The higher the denier number, the coarser the yarn and the thicker the cloth (usually used for long-fiber yarn).
Definition of yarn count:
Take a yarn weighing 1 pound. Its length is several times longer than 840 yards, which is called a yarn count. If it is 840 yards long, it is called a yarn count. 10 times the length is called 10-count yarn, if 840 yards is 20 times the length, it is called 20-count yarn, and so on. The larger the number, the finer the yarn (usually used for short-staple yarn).
Types of yarn
A. According to material:
1. Natural fiber:
(1) Plant fiber: cotton (COTTON) linen (JUTE, LINEN, RAMIE)
(2) Animal fiber: wool (WOOL) silk (SILK)
2. Synthetic fiber:
Nylon (nylon) (NYLON) Polyester (POLYESTER is also called TETRON) Acrylic Polypropylene (PP) Polyethylene (PE)
3. Man-made fiber:
Rayon is also called artificial cotton Viscose
4. Blended fiber:
Long/short fiber blended yarn, there are two types of T/R T/C
B. According to brightness: semi-glossy yarn/glossy yarn/triangular glossy yarn
C. According to processing:
1. Raw silk (unprocessed): UDY (unextended) POY (semi-extended) FOY (fully extended)
2. Processed silk
3. Spinning
4. Wrapping yarn
D. According to the number of strands of yarn: single strand, double strand, multi-strand
Distinguishing yarn materials:
1. Cotton: burns immediately, the flame is stable, gradually extinguished, white smoke, burnt smell, gray ash, SOFT.
2. Rayon: burns immediately, flame is stable, goes out immediately, produces white smoke, smells like burning, no ash, soft.
3. Nylon: shrinks, curls and melts first, gradually burns, produces white smoke, smells like celery, gray lumps, shiny.
4. Polyester: shrinks, curls and melts first, gradually burns, produces black smoke, smells bad, black lumps, dull.
5. PE: shrinks, curls and melts first, then burns immediately, produces black smoke, smells like paraffin, yellow-brown lumps.
6. PP: melts first and then burns quickly, flame jumps, produces black smoke, pungent smell, black irregular lumps.
Grey cloth:
A. According to weaving method (different looms):
1. Knitted cloth: mesh cloth, Mega cloth, plush, sheared plush, wear-resistant cloth, KEVLA L LYCRA.
2. Plain woven cloth: Taffeta, Oxford cloth, CORDURA BALLISTIC.
3. Twill cloth: 3/1 twill 2/2 twill, large twill, cross jacquard, plaid, sardine
4. Jacquard: color yarn plaid, curtain fabric, LOGO jacquard, bed sheet, tablecloth
5. Non-woven fabric: Lixin fabric, needle-rolled cotton (pay attention to thickness/weight/texture/color)
Plain weave, twill, and jacquard are all made of warp and weft yarns woven up and down to form their fabric structure. Due to the different materials/numbers of warp and weft yarns and different weaving methods, various specifications of fabrics can be changed. The specification is expressed as follows:
420D (warp denier) * 420D (weft denier) / 50T (warp yarn number) * 36T (weft yarn number) Knitted fabric is made of warp and weft yarns knitted together in the form of loops, usually divided into warp knitting and weft knitting. The specifications are often expressed by denier/weight/width.
Common specifications of nylon fabric:
70D: 70D*170T+PU1 70D*190T+0.3MM PVC 70D diamond grid+PU2+WR/
210D:210D*116T+PU1 210D*116T+PU2 210D*118T+0.35MM plain PVC
420D:420D*86T+PU2 420D*86T+0.4MM PVC 420D large oblique+PU2+WR 420D cross jacquard PU2+WR
840D+PU2/PVC 1680D+PU2/PVC
CORDURA:500D+PU2+WR/PVC 1000D+PU2+WR/PVC
Common specifications of terylene fabric:
75D printed cloth+0.3MM PVC 150D herringbone oblique+PU1 300D*110T+PU2/0.3MM PVC
600D*300D*64T+0.5MM PVC 600D*64T+0.55MM PVC 600D*76T+PU2+WR
1200D+PU2+WR/0.6MM PVC 1800D+0.65MM PVC
Other commonly used fabric specifications:
1. PP fabric: 1000D PP plain weave + PU2+WR 1200D PP twill + PU2+WR 350D PP twill + PU2+WR
The characteristics of PP fabric are light weight, good fastness and color fixation, good strength and heat resistance, anti-fouling and antibacterial properties, and can be naturally decomposed.
2. PE coated fabric: also called PE plastic fabric, it is formed by PE coated on both sides of PE plain weave.
3. Warp and weft blended fabric: 420D*300D N/T Two-color cross jacquard + PU2 (two-color effect) T/linen: 300D*12'S/2+0.4MM PVC (lower import tariffs in the United States)
Dyeing and finishing process:
Grey cloth → coloring → cloth matching → cloth rolling → dyeing (de-sizing/refining/dyeing) → shaping (resin/water splashing) → packaging and then sending to printing/gluing or gluing
1. Coloring should be considered for post-processing PVC
2. Dyeing is divided into normal temperature (nylon) and high temperature (polyester/plain woven fabric/wrinkled fabric). Pay attention to color fastness (sunlight/washing/friction/anti-ultraviolet) and non-azo dyes (the European Community requires that all fabrics must not contain azo dyes)
3. Send the dyed cloth into the shaping machine, fix the yarn structure at a high temperature of 140~190℃, control the width and feel (add resin), and do water splashing or fireproofing.
4. There are several types of processing after the color cloth is completed:
(1). Printing: ink (roller printing) Paste printing (rotary printing) Paper printing (thermal transfer) Automatic screen printing
(2). Hot pressing: Use a high-temperature roller with a pattern to contact the fabric surface to form a pattern
(3). Sanding/raising/brushing: Use sandpaper/needle/brush to contact the fabric surface to form a velvety and hairy feel
(4). Gluing: Apply a layer of glue (PU/ULY/color glue/waterproof and breathable) evenly on the fabric surface to achieve the effect of waterproof/yarn fixing and reinforcement. Pay attention to the requirements of waterproof and breathable. The gloss haze and hand feel of the glue surface should not be too hard.
(5). Gluing: Mainly divided into PVC glue/CPU glue (ie EMB glue)/TPE glue/FLEX glue, etc.
(1). PVC glue: Glue the PVC film to the fabric to achieve the effect of waterproof/yarn fixing and reinforcement. Pay attention to the hand feel/texture/thickness/cold resistance and low toxicity.
(2). CPU glue: Apply CPU glue evenly on the fabric surface in the form of a coating to achieve the effect of waterproof/reinforcement/yarn fixing. It has low toxicity, can be naturally decomposed and burned. Environmentally friendly features such as no toxic gas generated during burning. Attention should be paid to the requirements of hand feel/texture/glue color/cold resistance.
(3). TPE/FLEX glue: the most environmentally friendly glue, used to replace PVC/EMB glue, TPE glue is relatively soft.
(4). Bonding: refers to bonding cloth with PU foam/EVA/sponge to achieve reinforcement or other functional effects (pad/insulation/pressure resistance)
Leather materials can be divided into:
A. Natural leather: (constituent elements are: thickness/texture/light haze/coloring or dyeing)
1. Cowhide: genuine leather (first layer leather) is used for leather shoes/leather clothes/high-end leather goods, split leather (second layer leather) is used for general leather goods such as sports shoes.
2. Sheepskin: lambskin is used for leather clothes/leather shoes/gloves, etc.
3. Pigskin: general leather goods/gloves
4. Crocodile and ostrich leather are used for high-end leather goods.
For all natural leathers, at least 30% loss should be anticipated when calculating and cutting materials.
B. Artificial leather:
1. PVC rubber:
(1) Thickness (0.8MM~2.0MM, mainly from the foam layer)
(2) Width (36" 48" 54")
(3) Base fabric (T/C 10P 6P knitted fabric, raised fabric, non-woven fabric, pay attention to white fabric base or dyed fabric base)
(4) Embossing
(5) Surface treatment (gloss haze, printing, flocking, calendering, pearlescent, mirror)
(6) Hand feel (softness, hardness, high elasticity, NAPA)
(7) Application (bags, luggage, substitute shoes, regular shoes, furniture, vehicles)
(8) Special requirements (cold resistance, sulfur resistance, yellowing resistance, bending resistance, friction resistance, anti-slip, low toxicity)
2. PU leather:
(1) Thickness (0.6MM~1.2MM, mainly from the thickness of the base fabric)
(2) Width (36" 48" 54")
(3) Base fabric (similar to PVC leather)
(4) Surface treatment (similar to PVC leather)
(5) Embossing (release paper forms finer lines)
(6) Application (bags, shoes, furniture, gloves)
(7) Special requirements and feel
3. PVC tape: The components are
(1) Thickness (0.1MM~1.0MM)
(2) Texture (roller formed)
(3) Feel (normal feel, hard, semi-hard)
(4) Special requirements (cold resistance, low toxicity)
4. Imitation cloth texture PVC leather:
(1) Texture (imitation 210D, imitation 420D, imitation 600D, imitation 1680D, imitation sardine cloth texture)
(2) Width (56"~58")
(3) Fabric base (70D, 210D, 200D/400D, 600D/300D, pay attention to whether it is dyed)
(4) Total thickness (0.3~0.5MM)
(5) Hand feel and special requirements
5. PVC mesh fabric:
(1) Made of nylon or terylene laminated with PVC (so it can be made into a two-color effect)
(2) Thickness (0.25~0.65MM)
(3) Base fabric (210D, 420D, 250D, 840D, 600D)
(4) Width (54")
(5) Texture
(6) Pay attention to special requirements such as light haze/cold resistance/low toxicity